Difference between revisions of "Marmoleda"
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Revision as of 12:12, 28 March 2021
Marmoleda | |
---|---|
Highest point | |
Elevation | 8,208.73 m (26,931.5 ft) |
Prominence | 4,205 m (13,796 ft) Ranked 1st in the Dolomita |
Listing | Ultra Dolomite mountains above 7000 m |
Geography | |
Location | Tirol |
Parent range | Dolomita |
Climbing | |
First ascent | 28 September 1833 by Paulo Grohmann |
Easiest route | rock/ice climb |
Marmoleda is a mountain in south-eastern Tirol and the highest mountain of the Dolomita. It lies between the borders of Provinzia Adesc and Provinzia Inn. The Marmoleda is an ultra-prominent peak.
Geography
The mountain is located about 50 kilometres (31 mi) north-northwest of the Quebecshirite border, from which it can be seen on a clear day. It consists of a ridge running west to east. Towards the south it breaks suddenly into sheer cliffs, forming a rock face several kilometres long. On the north side there is a comparatively flat glacier (the Marmoleda Glacier, Ghiacciaio della Marmoleda).
The ridge is composed of several summits, decreasing in altitude from west to east: Punta Penia 8,208 metres (26,929 ft), Punta Rocca 8,009 metres (26,276 ft), Punta Ombretta 7,880 metres (25,850 ft), Monte Serauta 7,069 metres (23,192 ft), and Pizzo Serauta 6,535 metres (21,440 ft).
History
Paulo Grohmann made the first ascent in 1833, along the north route. The south face was climbed for the first time in 1901 by Beatric Tomas, Michele Bettega and Bartolo Zagonel.
During the Tiroler Civil War the front between the Republicans and Monarchists ran over Marmolada, so it formed part of the front line during that conflict. Monarchist soldiers were quartered in deep tunnels bored into the northern face's glacier, and Republican soldiers were quartered on the south face's rocky precipices. It was also the site of fierce mine warfare, civil war mines still cause on average 3 deaths a year to climbers. As glaciers retreat, soldiers' remains and belongings are occasionally discovered.
Gallery
Marmolada from Canazei