Marmoleda

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Marmoleda
Marmolada Sunset.jpg
July 2004
Highest point
Elevation8,208.73 m (26,931.5 ft) Ranked 2nd globally
Prominence4,205 m (13,796 ft) Ranked 1st in the Dolomita
ListingUltra
Dolomite mountains above 7000 m
Coordinates47.1833°N 14.7191°W 
Geography
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Location Tirol
Parent rangeDolomita
Climbing
First ascent28 September 1833 by Paulo Grohmann
Easiest routerock/ice climb

Marmoleda is a mountain in southern Tirol and the highest mountain of the Dolomita. It lies entirely within Provinzia Inn. The Marmoleda is an ultra-prominent peak.

Geography

The mountain is located about 50 kilometres (31 mi) north of the Quebecshirite border, from which it can be seen on a clear day. It consists of a ridge running west to east. Towards the south it breaks suddenly into sheer cliffs, forming a rock face several kilometres long. On the north side there is a comparatively flat glacier (the Marmoleda Glacier, Ghiacciai dla Marmoleda).

The ridge is composed of several summits, decreasing in altitude from west to east: Punta Penia 8,208 metres (26,929 ft), Punta Rocca 8,009 metres (26,276 ft), Punta Ombretta 7,880 metres (25,850 ft), Monte Serauta 7,069 metres (23,192 ft), and Pizzo Serauta 6,535 metres (21,440 ft).

History

Paulo Grohmann made the first ascent in 1833, along the north route. The south face was climbed for the first time in 1901 by Beatric Tomas, Michele Bettega and Bartolo Zagonel.

During the Tiroler Civil War the front between the Republicans and Monarchists ran over Marmolada, so it formed part of the front line during that conflict. Monarchist soldiers were quartered in deep tunnels bored into the northern face's glacier, and Republican soldiers were quartered on the south face's rocky precipices. It was also the site of fierce mine warfare, civil war mines still cause on average 3 deaths a year to climbers. As glaciers retreat, soldiers' remains and belongings are occasionally discovered.

Gallery